Michelle owns a property in Lombard where invasive species—especially buckthorn and
honeysuckle—are encroaching from an adjacent prairie path. She’s frustrated by the
repeated, expensive clearing of these invaders, many of which originate off her property,
and seeks a more sustainable, long-term solution.
Working with Nick Fuller, Chief Ecologist at Natural Communities, they have set out to
build a restoration plan: reduce seed rain, prep the site with sheet mulching, regular
cutbacks, and (optionally) permitted prescribed fire, then establish a short native prairie
using plugs or seed.
The Situation: Buckthorn and Honeysuckle Pressures in Lombard
Michelle’s property borders a prairie path where invasive buckthorn and honeysuckle
continually drop seed. After several costly clearings, she wanted a long-term fix—and a
native buffer that looks good and holds the line.
Nick confirmed the core challenge: persistent seed rain from outside the property. Even
with perfect on-site cleanup, new seedlings arrive each season. The solution blends
boundary management (trimming to the property line, coordinating with the adjacent
landholder) and smart site prep before replanting with natives.
Pro tip: Identify the adjacent parcel owner (village/county/private). If it’s public, there
may be a path to collaboration on invasive control.
Site Prep That Works (With Minimal or No Pesticides)
1) Cut, Stump Management, and Seasonal Weed-Whacking
- Cut back honeysuckle/buckthorn.
- For the next couple of growing seasons, hit resprouts with a battery weed-
whacker (Nick’s cadence: twice per season) to exhaust the plant’s energy. - Stump grinding is effective but pricier; manual seedling pulls help once the big
stuff is down. - Best for: smaller yards, ongoing maintenance, and homeowners avoiding herbicides.
2) Prescribed (Controlled) Burns — With Permits
- Properly planned burns can top-kill woody invasives and favor native species
long term. - Permits and local fire district approvals are typically required.
- In small suburban settings, build burn breaks and wet wooden fences; consider training/mentoring via DuPage Wild Ones or a local burn crew.
- Best for: homeowners open to a long-term ecological tool and willing to follow permitting/safety protocols.
3) Sheet Mulching (“Lasagna Method”)
- Lay overlapped cardboard/newspaper to exclude light; top with compost + wood
mulch. - Maintain a continuous barrier; gaps = weed gateways.
- Add 3–4" mulch post-planting to suppress new weed germination.
- Note: Deep-rooted spreaders (e.g., Canada thistle) may return from rhizomes nearby—sheet mulching isn’t a silver bullet, but it’s powerful in a layered strategy.
4) Spot Herbicide as a One-Time Reset (Optional)
- A targeted glyphosate application can speed initial clearance of dense thickets.
- Avoid “extended control” formulas (they’ll suppress your new natives).
- Follow label law, use precision tools, and pivot quickly to non-chemical
management.
Choosing and Establishing Native Plants
With the site cleaned (or in progress), the next step is to choose and plant natives suited to the site’s conditions.
Assessing Light, Soil, and Slope
Nick guided Michelle to evaluate:
- Sunlight exposure — she estimated about six hours of sun (“part to full sun”) in
her planting area, opening many native options. - Soil type and moisture — she described a clayish soil, with a sloped section
where prior removal of buckthorn affected stability and increased erosion risk. - Slope concerns — on slopes, plantings must help anchor soil and resist runoff;
deeper-rooted native grasses and sedges often do well.
Plant Lifespans: Biennial vs. Perennial
Michelle had planted black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) in the past, which often acts
like a biennial or short-lived perennial in some contexts. Nick suggested switching to more durable species such as Rudbeckia fulgida or Rudbeckia speciosa, both more
reliably perennial and better suited to garden conditions.
Seeds vs. Plugs (Young Plants)
Nick walked through the trade-offs:
-
Seeds
- Less costly and more “wild” in appearance
- Available in mixes (e.g. “short prairie mix” reaching 2–4 ft)
- Require persistent weed suppression (e.g. weed whacking) in years 1 and 2 to let seedlings outcompete weeds
- Avoid pulling weeds aggressively in early years, so as not to disturb young
native plants - A mature look from seed may take 3–4 years or more; some species flower
only after 7–8 years
-
Plugs / perennials
- Immediate structure and aesthetic appeal
- More expensive, but often worth it in terms of early impact
- Easier to manage (you know what you planted)
- Use hardwood mulch around plugs, and then hand-pull weeds (avoiding
disturbance of the plugs) - Nick also recommended checking Wholesale Native’s “starter natives” or “short prairie mix” plant lists to pick species well suited to Michelle’s region and conditions.
Cost-Saving and Propagation Tips
To stretch her budget, Nick suggested:
- Joining environmental nonprofits (e.g. The Conservation Foundation or DuPage
Wild Ones). Their membership often entitles you to permanent discounts (e.g. 25
%) on native plant orders. - Collecting seeds from successfully grown native species in her yard and sowing or potting them elsewhere (in effect creating a small nursery).
- Potting up young plants and gradually replacing less desirable species over time.
What Success Looks Like Over Time
- Seeded areas: “coming together” at year 3–4; full expression by year 5–8.
- Early maintenance: frequent weed-whacking of annuals; hand-pull stubborn perennials (e.g., Canada thistle) when they appear.
- After establishment: natives fill space, shade soil, and lower your maintenance load.
Restoration is a journey—not a weekend project. The payoff is a resilient, beautiful,
wildlife-friendly buffer that protects your property and your time.
Ready to Stop the Cycle and Start Your Native Buffer?
Every property tells a story — and with the right plan, even the most stubborn invasives
can give way to thriving native habitat. Whether you’re tackling buckthorn and
honeysuckle, restoring a pollinator corridor, or simply trying to add more native color to
your landscape, expert guidance can make all the difference.
Nick Fuller and the team at Natural Communities offer free native restoration
consultations to help homeowners, landowners, and community groups assess their
sites, plan restoration strategies, and choose the right mix of native plants, plugs, and
seeds for long-term success.
Ready to take the next step? Schedule your free consultation today